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The Energy of Nature$
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E. C. Pielou

Print publication date: 2001

Print ISBN-13: 9780226668062

Published to Chicago Scholarship Online: February 2013

DOI: 10.7208/chicago/9780226668055.001.0001

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PRINTED FROM CHICAGO SCHOLARSHIP ONLINE (www.chicago.universitypressscholarship.com). (c) Copyright University of Chicago Press, 2021. All Rights Reserved. An individual user may print out a PDF of a single chapter of a monograph in CHSO for personal use.date: 27 July 2021

The Energy of Ocean Waves

The Energy of Ocean Waves

(p.65) 7 The Energy of Ocean Waves
The Energy of Nature

E. C. Pielou

University of Chicago Press

At any one moment, the energy in waves in the whole world ocean is only about one-third as great as the energy in currents. All the same, waves are more visible than currents, and they display the ocean's enormous energy much more vividly. Waves vary in many ways. They vary in what causes them to form and grow and in what makes them die out and disappear. They vary in size and also in period, the time it takes for one wave crest to succeed another at a given point. This chapter discusses the following wave types: wind waves (ripples, “ordinary” waves, and swells); internal waves, below the surface of the water; tsunamis, which are usually, but not always, caused by earthquakes; and solitary waves, whose solitariness puts them in a class by themselves.

Keywords:   wave energy, ocean currents, wind waves, internal waves, solitary waves, tsunamis

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